Item 36 - Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Utrecht, Le Vieux Chateau d'Anvers. Description of journey to Breda - stayed at Prince Cardinal, and left at 5am, so no time to see the Grote Kerk. 3 ferries between Breda and Gorcum, and 1 between Gorcum and Utrecht, so a slow journey. Countryside flat, wet and spongy, with many frogs and storks. Black and white cows, fastened by the neck in pairs to prevent straying. Gentlemen's villas, built as close as possible to the roads or canals, with the name in large letters over the door - carefully and expensively adorned gardens, but tasteless, with Chinese summer house, gothic castles, flying Mercuries and much topiary. The inn is good but expensive - had intended to go to Le Nouveau Chateau d'Anvers. Cathedral - nave destroyed by a storm a century before, so only chancel and tower (diagram) - church would have been handsome, if entire. Latin distich on Cain and Abel. On 3rd July 7 hours on canal from Utrecht to Amsterdam - on each side an unbroken succession of neat and elegant country houses. Impressed by the buildings of Amsterdam, but not by the smell of the canals. Charitable institutions run well and honestly (unlike the Irish). Remarks on beggars in various European cities. Staying in Doelen Hotel. Visit to service in synagogue (German, not Portuguese) - a cappella singing. Had intended to visit North Holland (purest Dutch manners, especially cleanliness) - idea abandoned, partly because of weather, partly because no one speaks English. Refusal to hire interpreter or guide - prefers to buy guidebook and make his own way. Female headdresses (a substantive farmer's daughter carries on her head the value of several cows in golden trinkets).