Showing 492 results

Munich. Only 4 nights in Venice - hurried away because of the heat, and also to catch up with the Sothebys. Venice comparatively empty of visitors and natives - grass growing in St Mark's Square. Met Matthew Lewis (OW) at a comedy, who expects Byron to arrive the following day and promises to introduce PE at the Teatro San Benedetto - not keen, but doesn't want to offend an old school-fellow. They fail to show up, and PE leaves the next day, travelling via Treviso and Bassano (having come down via Padua - he is now satiated with churches and pictures). Description of journey to Trent(o). The Sothebys are 2 days ahead, but it would be a foolish to hurry through the Tyrol (like the Englishman who did not see Rome on his way to Naples because it happened to be midnight when he passed through it). Departure delayed by rain - musical mass in honour of St Aloysius Gonzago. On to Neumarkt - language changes from Italian to German - and Bolzano, where he stumbles and hurts his knee (this part of the letter written on 18th July in Innsbruck). The Verona diligence to Brixen (a private carriage exorbitantly expensive), but arrives at 3a.m., so decides to continue to Innsbruck. Steeper ascent, so the diligence needs 6 or 8 horse rather than the normal 4. At Brenner one brook leads to the Black Sea and another to the Adriatic. Description of route from Bassano to Innsbruck - Sothebys now 1 day ahead. On to Munich - at Fussen PE checked to ensure he was not bringing plague into Bavaria. Finds Sothebys - they proceed to Lake Constance, but PE remains to examine Augsburg mss (now in Munich) - will meet again in Baden. No wine, but very cheap beer. Praise for reforms of Joseph II. Amusing translation of an innkeeper's advertisement into English.

Florence. A short letter, but being sent free of charge - thinks it rude to send a short letter since the recipient has to pay the costs. Is well, and has not used his travelling medicine chest. Travelled with Hallam to Bologna via Geneva, Milan and Venice, and came on to Florence on 5th October. Treasures in library of San Lorenzo, but, like those of the Vatican, not very accessible - only open 3 hours a day, and often shut altogether. Does not expect to finish his task until Easter, but happy to have a pretext to stay in Florence. More English and Irish in Florence than in Brussels in 1816. Has met an old acquaintance - trained as an attorney, got no business, married advantageously, acquired a situation in the West Indies, and now living very smartly in Florence, at the top of society; but planning to move to Bath in the spring, where they be able to afford very little, and will be cut by the people who now court them. 'Almost anyone can be great somewhere or other.' Has south facing lodgings, and can sit in late November with the window open - wishes Michelangelo had orientated San Lorenzo the same way. Intends to go to Milan when he has finished in Florence - will probably be out of England for a year, but will certainly return after a year in Oxford publishing his findings. Asks her to sell some stocks in mid-January.

Glasgow. Inn at Dunkeld the best in the town, but filthy. However, they met with moorfowl for the first time (= red grouse). Better to stay in Inver. Veysie more pleased with the Duke of Atholl's grounds than PE. View of the cascade of the Braan (Black Linn Falls?) spoiled by the Hermitage. From Dunkeld to Blair Atholl via pass of Killicrankie. Blair Castle without regularity or beauty, but with some fine rooms and wonderful grounds. Tomb of Dundee and Claverhouse's Stone. On to Dalnacardoch.

Oxford. Continuation of account of travels. From Carlisle to Penrith, and then on foot with a guide to Kendal and the Lakes. Ullswater and Patterdale - the king of Patterdale a great miser (who in fact died 5 days after the writing of this letter). The next to the top of Helvellyn, and on to Keswick. 2 days at Keswick, and 2 more at Windermere. Lovely country (as also in Scotland), but PE has realized that works of art give him more pleasure than those of nature. The docks of Liverpool delight him more than any landscape. 2 days in Liverpool with friends of Veysie (population of 70,000, doubled over last 30 years). Chester and on - but no need to describe this, since sister-in-law has seen it. A week in Worcester with Philpott (excursions to Hereford and Gloucester). Tewkesbury and Cheltenham (where a day with the Beverleys). Probably the best summer of his life - now for 10 months of noise, smoke, filth and confinement.

From John Vaughan, concerning the payment of some drafts from John (her late husband?) - he prefers that they not be paid at Ealing. A ship in dock has two pieces of canton crepe from a Mr Boylston, but they cannot be brought ashore except at the risk of the ship being seized - he will ask if it might be possible to pay duty and import them, and asks her to destroy this letter.

Paris. Apologises for delay in writing, but the journey was long. Slept at Blossom's Inn, Lawrence Lane, (and hopes never again), at Brighton, then at Dieppe - description of route to Paris and of scenery. (Le) Havre centre of French West India trade and full of bustle. Rouen ugly but prosperous - to theatre in evening (as large as Covent Garden before it was rebuilt, for a town of 80-90,000 inhabitants). Countryside from Rouen to Paris ugly and ill-cultivated. Paris better to live in but worse to visit than he expected. Apparently staying temporarily with Barrois (with whome he travelled as far as Rouen) - he has an excellent house and a well-educated wife, who speaks English and understands Latin. The French are a cleanly people, but there is a general air of shabbiness, perhaps caused by the circumstances of the times - few gentlemen, and it is hard to distinguish an officer from a common soldier. Every shoe black has a mild and polite demeanour - one of the most striking things. Many streets have two names - pre- and post-revolutionary (e.g. Quai Voltaire where Barrois lives is also Quai des Theatins).

Ostend. Thursday night at Golden Cross, Charing Cross - room facing street, so no sleep. Dover coach at 6am 0 took 14 rather than advertised 11 hours. A female fellow traveller going to Paris to see plays - did not understand French, and did not realise that Parisian plays would be in French. A French lady in the coach was as ugly and as agreeable as sin. Met the master of a small vessel on Friday evening, and set sail for Ostend at 1.00 on Saturday morning - very seasick. Landed at 6.00 on Sunday morning. Must stay in Ostend until the following day, because 4/5 days ago the government (NB which?) made a passport necessary for onward travel. Did not wish to eat shrimps and drink gin in alehouses, so went to mass and vespers. Description of food prices. Tomorrow to Bruges. Please keep his letters, as he does not keep a journal and would like to read them on his return.

Bruges. Took all Monday morning to get passport - then to Bruges by barge. Country flat and dull - willows, poplars, windmills, churches, cows. Staying at the Cornflower Inn. Bruges lovely and old - stalls of the Knights of the Golden Fleece in the cathedral. Streets very twisty, so easy to lose sense of direction - but the bells of the town hall help. Does not warm to the inhabitants. Long walk in morning, table d'hote at 1.00 - 1st course 20 types of boiled fish, 2nd course 20 types of fried fish. PE no fish eater, so unlucky that there are 3 rogation days this week (plus Friday and Saturday). Tomorrow to Ghent, and then Brussels. Postscript on separate sheet. Bruges fair - gingerbread stalls, puppet shows and cutlery and linen and woollen goods for sale. Encloses card of inn containing an image of the street. Jesuit college converted to cavalry barracks - the cavalry swagger as in England. Many graven images.

Rotterdam. Changed boats at Delft en route from The Hague (leaning tower, and beggars). Description of the two-cabined horse-drawn schuit (canal boat). Erasmus statue, with Dutch verses (not Latin, which Johnson would have preferred). The Meuse, and elms on the Boompjes quay - canals in Dutch towns heavily bordered by trees. Rotterdam canals not stagnant, and deep enough for large trade vessels. A young friend of Gaisford's will take all 32 pages to the post in London (beginning Antwerp, 27th June) - PE looks forward to reading them again. To service in Cathedral Church of St Laurence - monument to the English youth Chute.

Florence. Notice in Giornale di Milano that PE arrived on 28/09 and left on 10/10 (but 3 day trip to Como, where Caroline of Brunswick was behaving with as little discretion as she did in England). Had crossed the Alps via Simplon (formerly as little known as Orpington until Napoleon's new road). Description of journey from Switzerland to Milan. Book shopping in Milan. Cheap visit to la Scala (250 boxes, in each of which an ugly countess with a male friend - PE reminded of what Charles II said of his brother, that the choice of his mistresses was presented to him by his confessor by way of penance - so the Italians pout and quarrel as if they were really man and wife). Tedious 6 day journey from Milan to Florence - saw part of Pope's army (well dressed and well looking lads). Sonnet written to celebrate PE's arrival - but a standard one presented to every English visitor to the Albergo delle Quatro Nazioni, so returned without payment. Intends to remain 6-8 weeks. Huge choice offered at dinner - Italians know how to roast, which the French do not. 2 letters to PE missing from Post Office - possibly sent in error to Lord Elmley - one letter might have helped him gain permission to take mss from the Laurentian Library to his rooms. A little disappointed by Florence (perhaps because of its enhanced reputation), but the paving of the streets is amazing. Has met old friend Fanny Allen with her brother. Eating quantities of Parmesan. Florentine tailors work quickly - measured at dusk, and promised the suit by 9 the next morning.