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Item Old Westminsters
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Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Antwerp. Leaves Antwerp in early afternoon - 1 night in Breda, 2 in Utrecht, then Amsterdam. Church of St James and memorial chapel of Rubens (picture returned after 7 years in Paris). Citadel - now a prison. Dockyard built by Buonaparte now decaying. Latin elegiacs over one of town gates - in 1624 the senate and people felt that the Scheldt would soon be opened and commerce restored - 200 years passed before the first happened, and the second is probably very remote. Inhabitants are fair, fresh, clean, quiet, industrious and comfortable. Every street corner has a statue of the Virgin with a lamp (street lighting). The many angels and saints in the churches possess a distinguished beauty. Oratorio in cathedral for the souls of all nations who fell at Waterloo.

Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Hague. Walk to Ryswyk, and failure to find Needle of Ryswyk (house chosen for 1697 treaty negotiations because it had several doors, so the ambassadors could enter at the same time without any loss of precedence). Monument to Baron Wassenaar (d. 1665) in Grote of Sint-Jacobskerk very badly executed. States General are sitting - PE has not been, but several members taker the table d'hote at his hotel. (Tuesday, 16th July - Rotterdam) Has paid bill - hotel not clean, but not as expensive as feared (misled by wax rather than tallow candles). Dutch royal family very quiet and modest, without any pomp. Has brought French franks to Holland, but the exchange rate varies. Little book buying in Holland (apart from guides) - 1638 bible by Barker and Bill, and 1597 Euripides apud Commelinum.

Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Brussels. Arrived on 20th. Tour of Holland - 4 nights in Antwerp, 1 in Breda, 2 in Utrecht, 6 in Amsterdam, 3 in Leyden, 4 in The Hague, 3 in Rotterdam, 1 in Antwerp. All PE's letters have arrived in England, 'though mostly entrusted to complete strangers (inc. a Valentine Dillon of County Mayo, who had just been prosecuted - unsuccessfully - for breach of promise, accompanied by a duel with the lady's brother). Discussion of difficulty of conveying a trunk to Italy - impossible by land, no sea-trade from Holland, therefore leave it in Brussels till his return. Expecting a letter of credit, but it may have been sent straight to Geneva - will not wait for it, since he has spent quite enough time in Holland. Staying at Hotel de Flandre - table d'hote expensive enough to exclude army officers, an expense PE cheerfully bears, since they are noisy and empty and unaccustomed to good society. Considers various means of travelling to Cologne. Much rainy weather - the Dutch do refer to St Swithin (a Saxon bishop), but to St Medard or St Margaret.

Henry Bedford to Peter Elmsley

Two letters are at Stafford Row from PE to his brother, who has gone to Godalming (to examine Norman remains). Since one letter follows the other by a day, he wonders if he should forward them. His mother is still at Ealing, and has been for five weeks.

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