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Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Utrecht, Le Vieux Chateau d'Anvers. Description of journey to Breda - stayed at Prince Cardinal, and left at 5am, so no time to see the Grote Kerk. 3 ferries between Breda and Gorcum, and 1 between Gorcum and Utrecht, so a slow journey. Countryside flat, wet and spongy, with many frogs and storks. Black and white cows, fastened by the neck in pairs to prevent straying. Gentlemen's villas, built as close as possible to the roads or canals, with the name in large letters over the door - carefully and expensively adorned gardens, but tasteless, with Chinese summer house, gothic castles, flying Mercuries and much topiary. The inn is good but expensive - had intended to go to Le Nouveau Chateau d'Anvers. Cathedral - nave destroyed by a storm a century before, so only chancel and tower (diagram) - church would have been handsome, if entire. Latin distich on Cain and Abel. On 3rd July 7 hours on canal from Utrecht to Amsterdam - on each side an unbroken succession of neat and elegant country houses. Impressed by the buildings of Amsterdam, but not by the smell of the canals. Charitable institutions run well and honestly (unlike the Irish). Remarks on beggars in various European cities. Staying in Doelen Hotel. Visit to service in synagogue (German, not Portuguese) - a cappella singing. Had intended to visit North Holland (purest Dutch manners, especially cleanliness) - idea abandoned, partly because of weather, partly because no one speaks English. Refusal to hire interpreter or guide - prefers to buy guidebook and make his own way. Female headdresses (a substantive farmer's daughter carries on her head the value of several cows in golden trinkets).

Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Paris, Hotel de Nimes, Rue de Grenelle. Cf. 297. Weather warm, and hotel tolerably quiet, clean and reasonable. If he were to stay long he would need to get introductions to respectable families - but not many of these, since one of the ingredients of respectability is wealth. Remarks on absence of French probity in selling, and on his new cotton stockings. Remarkable that relations can live so happily in the same house. Saw the Comte d'Artois (Charles X) with a carriage drawn by 8 horses, and surrounded by guards - last seen in Edinburgh in 1803, in very different circumstances. Sites in Paris are open every day and all day, and are free. Post-revolution churches are stripped of their ornaments (kept in an old convent), but the painted glass has survived. No pumps or wells in the city, but Seine water is good to drink.

Peter Elmsley to John Elmsley in Quebec

London. Copy of Mr Romilly's opinion on Boylston's will (v. 294?). Reconciliation of Pitt and Addington. Items of gossip. PE has remitted to John the last portion of the family estate. The family has, however, a sixth interest in a new edition of Chambaud's dictionary (perhaps from his bookseller uncle Peter, d. 1802?)

Peter Elmsley to Mary Hallowell

No formal addressee or date or signature - apparently the draft of a love letter to one Mary Hallowell, first object of his youthful affection and chosen life companion of his later years, but also a letter of apology and regret

Thomas Gaisford to Peter Elmsley

Collation of Bodleian mss. of Soph. Ajax, requested by PE for certain passages. Poor sales of PE's Acharnians because of inefficiency of booksellers - hopes the Heracleidae will fare better. Hopes that the rumour is true that PE will publish one of Charles Burney's transcripts from the grammatical ms. in Paris.

Thomas Gaisford to Peter Elmsley

Will send account of Scaligus' copy of Eur. for PE's new edition of the Heracleidae. On lost Parisian mss. of Eur. Asks PE to consult an Athenaeus ms. 1st volume of Poetae Graeci Minores completed - PE to receive a complimentary copy. PE going to Paris - TG asks for report on the state of the Royal Library.

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