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Utrecht, Le Vieux Chateau d'Anvers. Description of journey to Breda - stayed at Prince Cardinal, and left at 5am, so no time to see the Grote Kerk. 3 ferries between Breda and Gorcum, and 1 between Gorcum and Utrecht, so a slow journey. Countryside flat, wet and spongy, with many frogs and storks. Black and white cows, fastened by the neck in pairs to prevent straying. Gentlemen's villas, built as close as possible to the roads or canals, with the name in large letters over the door - carefully and expensively adorned gardens, but tasteless, with Chinese summer house, gothic castles, flying Mercuries and much topiary. The inn is good but expensive - had intended to go to Le Nouveau Chateau d'Anvers. Cathedral - nave destroyed by a storm a century before, so only chancel and tower (diagram) - church would have been handsome, if entire. Latin distich on Cain and Abel. On 3rd July 7 hours on canal from Utrecht to Amsterdam - on each side an unbroken succession of neat and elegant country houses. Impressed by the buildings of Amsterdam, but not by the smell of the canals. Charitable institutions run well and honestly (unlike the Irish). Remarks on beggars in various European cities. Staying in Doelen Hotel. Visit to service in synagogue (German, not Portuguese) - a cappella singing. Had intended to visit North Holland (purest Dutch manners, especially cleanliness) - idea abandoned, partly because of weather, partly because no one speaks English. Refusal to hire interpreter or guide - prefers to buy guidebook and make his own way. Female headdresses (a substantive farmer's daughter carries on her head the value of several cows in golden trinkets).

Paris, Hotel de Nimes, Rue de Grenelle. Cf. 297. Weather warm, and hotel tolerably quiet, clean and reasonable. If he were to stay long he would need to get introductions to respectable families - but not many of these, since one of the ingredients of respectability is wealth. Remarks on absence of French probity in selling, and on his new cotton stockings. Remarkable that relations can live so happily in the same house. Saw the Comte d'Artois (Charles X) with a carriage drawn by 8 horses, and surrounded by guards - last seen in Edinburgh in 1803, in very different circumstances. Sites in Paris are open every day and all day, and are free. Post-revolution churches are stripped of their ornaments (kept in an old convent), but the painted glass has survived. No pumps or wells in the city, but Seine water is good to drink.

Unable to organise means of travel to come and stay with PE. Love to the ladies and the 'bratlets.'

Written phonetically as with a cold in the nose. Advises PE not to use a handkerchief he left when playing cards a week ago. People poking their noses into Lord Melville's private affairs (last person to be impeached in the UK, in this year).

PE's mother's health is precarious, so Bedford worries when he doesn't hear from him. Is weak and at home having been bled. Family news - 'Horace is at the Museum and makes his own tea there.'

Travelling north to Keswick. Has written so much trash to his brother that he could not bring himself to write the same to PE - will collude with Southey to find interesting material. Has heard unfavourable news of Horace (who actually died the day before this letter). PE has made an (unspecified) offer - brother Henry to meet and discuss it. Staying with the Cunliffes at Acton Park (Wrexham) - apparently also visiting Sir Watkin Williams-Wynn (OW - elder brother of CWW v. 327)) at Wynnstay.

Request from Wynn (v. 327 or 329) to buy some books from Lackington's catalogue, inc. Moll Flanders and some folios of Shakespeare - aks PE to do this, as he is confined to the house by ill health.

An article by PE for the Quarterly Review will appear in the issue after next. The member for Montgomeryshire (Charles Williams-Wynn) has sent Bedford some grouse.

Has forwarded a Euripides to PE. Irish political gossip. Grice as a plural of grouse.

Asks PE to call - his father has died.