Oxford. Continuation of account of travels. From Carlisle to Penrith, and then on foot with a guide to Kendal and the Lakes. Ullswater and Patterdale - the king of Patterdale a great miser (who in fact died 5 days after the writing of this letter). The next to the top of Helvellyn, and on to Keswick. 2 days at Keswick, and 2 more at Windermere. Lovely country (as also in Scotland), but PE has realized that works of art give him more pleasure than those of nature. The docks of Liverpool delight him more than any landscape. 2 days in Liverpool with friends of Veysie (population of 70,000, doubled over last 30 years). Chester and on - but no need to describe this, since sister-in-law has seen it. A week in Worcester with Philpott (excursions to Hereford and Gloucester). Tewkesbury and Cheltenham (where a day with the Beverleys). Probably the best summer of his life - now for 10 months of noise, smoke, filth and confinement.
From John Vaughan, concerning the payment of some drafts from John (her late husband?) - he prefers that they not be paid at Ealing. A ship in dock has two pieces of canton crepe from a Mr Boylston, but they cannot be brought ashore except at the risk of the ship being seized - he will ask if it might be possible to pay duty and import them, and asks her to destroy this letter.
From Mr Phillips (?) in Montreal concerning the establishment of post offices in Kingston and York (now Toronto). Comments on affairs in Europe and Mauritius.
Paris. Apologises for delay in writing, but the journey was long. Slept at Blossom's Inn, Lawrence Lane, (and hopes never again), at Brighton, then at Dieppe - description of route to Paris and of scenery. (Le) Havre centre of French West India trade and full of bustle. Rouen ugly but prosperous - to theatre in evening (as large as Covent Garden before it was rebuilt, for a town of 80-90,000 inhabitants). Countryside from Rouen to Paris ugly and ill-cultivated. Paris better to live in but worse to visit than he expected. Apparently staying temporarily with Barrois (with whome he travelled as far as Rouen) - he has an excellent house and a well-educated wife, who speaks English and understands Latin. The French are a cleanly people, but there is a general air of shabbiness, perhaps caused by the circumstances of the times - few gentlemen, and it is hard to distinguish an officer from a common soldier. Every shoe black has a mild and polite demeanour - one of the most striking things. Many streets have two names - pre- and post-revolutionary (e.g. Quai Voltaire where Barrois lives is also Quai des Theatins).
Thanks PE for letter from Florence dated 10th June. . Expressions of tender feelings from all of them. Mary has had a return of her headaches - would be cured sooner if she were more sedate. Nancy (Ann) is in good health, but not happy at being urged to go into company - sister-in-law is rather happy that she is not charmed by the gaieties which delight other young people. She hears universally good reports of John. PE has talked of a visit to Paris the following year, and Mary is afraid that he might meet a French woman and marry her. Has temporarily started taking a daily paper, because of a scandal involving a lady bidding open defiance to all the accusations against her. News of various friends. Her nephew Ben Hallowell is to leave Charterhouse for Trinity College Cambridge. Her brother is rightly concerned - 7 children, and not one provided for. A friend (Mrs G) is facing two charges - her enemies are perjuring themselves. Has had an accident, and fears she will always have a limp.
Ostend. Thursday night at Golden Cross, Charing Cross - room facing street, so no sleep. Dover coach at 6am 0 took 14 rather than advertised 11 hours. A female fellow traveller going to Paris to see plays - did not understand French, and did not realise that Parisian plays would be in French. A French lady in the coach was as ugly and as agreeable as sin. Met the master of a small vessel on Friday evening, and set sail for Ostend at 1.00 on Saturday morning - very seasick. Landed at 6.00 on Sunday morning. Must stay in Ostend until the following day, because 4/5 days ago the government (NB which?) made a passport necessary for onward travel. Did not wish to eat shrimps and drink gin in alehouses, so went to mass and vespers. Description of food prices. Tomorrow to Bruges. Please keep his letters, as he does not keep a journal and would like to read them on his return.
Bruges. Took all Monday morning to get passport - then to Bruges by barge. Country flat and dull - willows, poplars, windmills, churches, cows. Staying at the Cornflower Inn. Bruges lovely and old - stalls of the Knights of the Golden Fleece in the cathedral. Streets very twisty, so easy to lose sense of direction - but the bells of the town hall help. Does not warm to the inhabitants. Long walk in morning, table d'hote at 1.00 - 1st course 20 types of boiled fish, 2nd course 20 types of fried fish. PE no fish eater, so unlucky that there are 3 rogation days this week (plus Friday and Saturday). Tomorrow to Ghent, and then Brussels. Postscript on separate sheet. Bruges fair - gingerbread stalls, puppet shows and cutlery and linen and woollen goods for sale. Encloses card of inn containing an image of the street. Jesuit college converted to cavalry barracks - the cavalry swagger as in England. Many graven images.
Rotterdam. Changed boats at Delft en route from The Hague (leaning tower, and beggars). Description of the two-cabined horse-drawn schuit (canal boat). Erasmus statue, with Dutch verses (not Latin, which Johnson would have preferred). The Meuse, and elms on the Boompjes quay - canals in Dutch towns heavily bordered by trees. Rotterdam canals not stagnant, and deep enough for large trade vessels. A young friend of Gaisford's will take all 32 pages to the post in London (beginning Antwerp, 27th June) - PE looks forward to reading them again. To service in Cathedral Church of St Laurence - monument to the English youth Chute.
London. PE has made funds available - has paid for tenant's repairs, some debts, and has started to crop the ground. Has walked around Marylebone - 50 years ago it was as rural as now Hampstead and Highgate are, but now very built up. Rambling discussion of reasons for this. Criticism of House of Lords. Wry consideration of high society. Sympathy expressed for Caroline of Brunswick, antipathy towards George IV. Wry consideration of high society.
London. Copy of Mr Romilly's opinion on Boylston's will (v. 294?). Reconciliation of Pitt and Addington. Items of gossip. PE has remitted to John the last portion of the family estate. The family has, however, a sixth interest in a new edition of Chambaud's dictionary (perhaps from his bookseller uncle Peter, d. 1802?)
