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Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Dunkeld. Prevented from writing of Edinburgh by the attentive hospitality of the MacKnights. Barnbougle Castle far superior to Hopetoun House. Left Edinburgh yesterday and spent the night in Kinross (the trout not much larger than a Ramsgate whiting). Strath earn a lovely and rich valley. Perth today - disappointing. Dunkeld similar to the suburbs of Canterbury. To see Blair Atholl the next day. Veysie is PE's travelling companion (Daniel, Bampton Lecturer 1795?).

Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Glasgow. Inn at Dunkeld the best in the town, but filthy. However, they met with moorfowl for the first time (= red grouse). Better to stay in Inver. Veysie more pleased with the Duke of Atholl's grounds than PE. View of the cascade of the Braan (Black Linn Falls?) spoiled by the Hermitage. From Dunkeld to Blair Atholl via pass of Killicrankie. Blair Castle without regularity or beauty, but with some fine rooms and wonderful grounds. Tomb of Dundee and Claverhouse's Stone. On to Dalnacardoch.

Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Glasgow. Comfortable night at Dalnacardoch. Grounds of Taymouth Castle (but not inside, due to the imminent arrival of Lord Bradalbane and his bride). Killin and the burial ground of the Lairds of MacNab (the current Laird, while wooing a lady, promised her the grandest burial place in Scotland - she refused him). Night at Tyndrum - inns in Scotland inferior to the English, but far superior in terms of wine, rum and brandy (inns in Yorkshire an exception to this). Loveliness of the Vale of Glenorchy and of Loch Awe. Splendours of Inverary Castle...but the town a paltry deception. Description of journey from Inverary to Arrochar. Visited Inchtavannach. Night at Dumbarton (a dirty town, with one dirty inn), and castle before church the next day. Finally to a splendid inn in Glasgow (whose coffee room alone is larger than the assembly room in Ramsgate).

Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Oxford. Tour of Scotland - Glasgow to Carlisle via Hamilton (awkward, inconvenient house, shabbily furnished, but some good pictures, chiefly portraits, and Rubens' Daniel in the Lions' Den). Remarks on Scotland - poor climate, wonderful scenery. The gentry, despite professing to love it, do not encourage agriculture or industry and do not live on their estates, preferring London or Edinburgh, so the country is poor (but Glasgow an exception, and also the Earls of Breadalbane). The lower classes are more intelligent than the English, but no more honest - very hospitable, however.

Peter Elmsley to his sister-in-law [Mary Hallowell?]

Oxford. Continuation of account of travels. From Carlisle to Penrith, and then on foot with a guide to Kendal and the Lakes. Ullswater and Patterdale - the king of Patterdale a great miser (who in fact died 5 days after the writing of this letter). The next to the top of Helvellyn, and on to Keswick. 2 days at Keswick, and 2 more at Windermere. Lovely country (as also in Scotland), but PE has realized that works of art give him more pleasure than those of nature. The docks of Liverpool delight him more than any landscape. 2 days in Liverpool with friends of Veysie (population of 70,000, doubled over last 30 years). Chester and on - but no need to describe this, since sister-in-law has seen it. A week in Worcester with Philpott (excursions to Hereford and Gloucester). Tewkesbury and Cheltenham (where a day with the Beverleys). Probably the best summer of his life - now for 10 months of noise, smoke, filth and confinement.

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