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From John Richardson in Montreal to Mrs Elmsley in Quebec. Condolences on heavy loss (her husband - cf. letter 30). Apologises for heavy expenses (medical, funeral).

NB Some of the following letters, up to and including that of 18th July, are not signed off - they read like an extended journal, and were despatched all together under one cover. Antwerp, Hotel d'Angleterre. Goes through his accounts since Ostend - has lived very cheaply, though without stinting himself. Could have stayed a few weeks longer in Brussels - PE the only English clergyman, so performed the office of pastor to the very smart English residents - indeed, he would like to smuggle to his sister-in-law several yards of white silk, which he received for burying the daughter of Lord Robert Fitzgerald, who died of a consumption. However, he must hasten into Holland, before hot weather makes the canals offensive and unwholesome. Description of journey from Brussels to Antwerp = well-built villages and no beggars. Antwerp itself extremely handsome. Walk to cathedral - 3 paintings by Rubens recently returned from Paris (where Napoleon had taken them, and where PE had seen them 2 years before) - but hung as if for sale, like pictures in Mr Christie's great room. Jesuit church - mixed feelings - first church with galleries he has seen on the continent. Hotel quite dirty. Dutch performance of Othello. Excellent costumes, variable but reasonable acting. Text taken from the adaptation by Jean-Francois Ducis. Royal Academy of Fine Arts - nothing remarkable apart from the pictures recently recovered from Paris. Walk along the quai - saw some merchantmen - many American ships, and the shops display signs in Flemish, French and American English (e.g. osiers instead of hawsers). Commerce uncertain, because nobody knows who will rule Antwerp in 10 years - it may remain Dutch, it may be reconquered by France, or it may be demanded by Prussia in any new division, to gain access to the German sea. To the north Buonaparte constructed a basin for 60 men of war, now innocently occupied by American vessels.

Antwerp. Leaves Antwerp in early afternoon - 1 night in Breda, 2 in Utrecht, then Amsterdam. Church of St James and memorial chapel of Rubens (picture returned after 7 years in Paris). Citadel - now a prison. Dockyard built by Buonaparte now decaying. Latin elegiacs over one of town gates - in 1624 the senate and people felt that the Scheldt would soon be opened and commerce restored - 200 years passed before the first happened, and the second is probably very remote. Inhabitants are fair, fresh, clean, quiet, industrious and comfortable. Every street corner has a statue of the Virgin with a lamp (street lighting). The many angels and saints in the churches possess a distinguished beauty. Oratorio in cathedral for the souls of all nations who fell at Waterloo.

Hague. Walk to Ryswyk, and failure to find Needle of Ryswyk (house chosen for 1697 treaty negotiations because it had several doors, so the ambassadors could enter at the same time without any loss of precedence). Monument to Baron Wassenaar (d. 1665) in Grote of Sint-Jacobskerk very badly executed. States General are sitting - PE has not been, but several members taker the table d'hote at his hotel. (Tuesday, 16th July - Rotterdam) Has paid bill - hotel not clean, but not as expensive as feared (misled by wax rather than tallow candles). Dutch royal family very quiet and modest, without any pomp. Has brought French franks to Holland, but the exchange rate varies. Little book buying in Holland (apart from guides) - 1638 bible by Barker and Bill, and 1597 Euripides apud Commelinum.

Brussels. Arrived on 20th. Tour of Holland - 4 nights in Antwerp, 1 in Breda, 2 in Utrecht, 6 in Amsterdam, 3 in Leyden, 4 in The Hague, 3 in Rotterdam, 1 in Antwerp. All PE's letters have arrived in England, 'though mostly entrusted to complete strangers (inc. a Valentine Dillon of County Mayo, who had just been prosecuted - unsuccessfully - for breach of promise, accompanied by a duel with the lady's brother). Discussion of difficulty of conveying a trunk to Italy - impossible by land, no sea-trade from Holland, therefore leave it in Brussels till his return. Expecting a letter of credit, but it may have been sent straight to Geneva - will not wait for it, since he has spent quite enough time in Holland. Staying at Hotel de Flandre - table d'hote expensive enough to exclude army officers, an expense PE cheerfully bears, since they are noisy and empty and unaccustomed to good society. Considers various means of travelling to Cologne. Much rainy weather - the Dutch do refer to St Swithin (a Saxon bishop), but to St Medard or St Margaret.

Two letters are at Stafford Row from PE to his brother, who has gone to Godalming (to examine Norman remains). Since one letter follows the other by a day, he wonders if he should forward them. His mother is still at Ealing, and has been for five weeks.

Recommends a doctor.

Has been confined to the house by sickness - has a blister on his side the size of the Westminster pancake. Asks to come to PE to eat potatoes or rice.

Postponing a visit from PE - brother Horace has had another attack in his bowels (OW - died in September 1807).

Back in London (Brompton) - talks of his own and his parents' grief over the death of Horace.