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Naples. Please pay

Naples. Boarded the Ranger brig bound for Malta and Egypt (but didn't get to latter). Palermo - Trapani (3 nights at sea from Palermo!) - Malta - Messina. Voyage partly undertaken for the health of Lady Harriet Drummond, but her sea-sickness caused the abandonment of the original plan of going to Athens. PE not as sea-sick as he thought he might be - only sick so as to make a discharge on one day. Will ignore Malta and Sicily till they meet, because he needs to address a letter from his sister-in-law - but Valetta very pretty - after 20 odd years of rule the English have introduced cleanliness, but have yet to set up a church. Sister-in-law's poor health caused by the weather - but the spring in Naples was just as raw as in England. Thanks for offer to look after PE's exports from Italy. Miss B. (Bigge?) has married. Various business matters. Mrs Bedford has died - PE has not heard from Bedford the son, but he himself could not write to anyone after his own mother's death. Some gossip from Grote concerning the love affairs of one Diana. Comments on the will of Mr Carew. Plans to return to England via Rome, Florence and Venice.

Munich. Only 4 nights in Venice - hurried away because of the heat, and also to catch up with the Sothebys. Venice comparatively empty of visitors and natives - grass growing in St Mark's Square. Met Matthew Lewis (OW) at a comedy, who expects Byron to arrive the following day and promises to introduce PE at the Teatro San Benedetto - not keen, but doesn't want to offend an old school-fellow. They fail to show up, and PE leaves the next day, travelling via Treviso and Bassano (having come down via Padua - he is now satiated with churches and pictures). Description of journey to Trent(o). The Sothebys are 2 days ahead, but it would be a foolish to hurry through the Tyrol (like the Englishman who did not see Rome on his way to Naples because it happened to be midnight when he passed through it). Departure delayed by rain - musical mass in honour of St Aloysius Gonzago. On to Neumarkt - language changes from Italian to German - and Bolzano, where he stumbles and hurts his knee (this part of the letter written on 18th July in Innsbruck). The Verona diligence to Brixen (a private carriage exorbitantly expensive), but arrives at 3a.m., so decides to continue to Innsbruck. Steeper ascent, so the diligence needs 6 or 8 horse rather than the normal 4. At Brenner one brook leads to the Black Sea and another to the Adriatic. Description of route from Bassano to Innsbruck - Sothebys now 1 day ahead. On to Munich - at Fussen PE checked to ensure he was not bringing plague into Bavaria. Finds Sothebys - they proceed to Lake Constance, but PE remains to examine Augsburg mss (now in Munich) - will meet again in Baden. No wine, but very cheap beer. Praise for reforms of Joseph II. Amusing translation of an innkeeper's advertisement into English.

Florence. A short letter, but being sent free of charge - thinks it rude to send a short letter since the recipient has to pay the costs. Is well, and has not used his travelling medicine chest. Travelled with Hallam to Bologna via Geneva, Milan and Venice, and came on to Florence on 5th October. Treasures in library of San Lorenzo, but, like those of the Vatican, not very accessible - only open 3 hours a day, and often shut altogether. Does not expect to finish his task until Easter, but happy to have a pretext to stay in Florence. More English and Irish in Florence than in Brussels in 1816. Has met an old acquaintance - trained as an attorney, got no business, married advantageously, acquired a situation in the West Indies, and now living very smartly in Florence, at the top of society; but planning to move to Bath in the spring, where they be able to afford very little, and will be cut by the people who now court them. 'Almost anyone can be great somewhere or other.' Has south facing lodgings, and can sit in late November with the window open - wishes Michelangelo had orientated San Lorenzo the same way. Intends to go to Milan when he has finished in Florence - will probably be out of England for a year, but will certainly return after a year in Oxford publishing his findings. Asks her to sell some stocks in mid-January.

Glasgow. Inn at Dunkeld the best in the town, but filthy. However, they met with moorfowl for the first time (= red grouse). Better to stay in Inver. Veysie more pleased with the Duke of Atholl's grounds than PE. View of the cascade of the Braan (Black Linn Falls?) spoiled by the Hermitage. From Dunkeld to Blair Atholl via pass of Killicrankie. Blair Castle without regularity or beauty, but with some fine rooms and wonderful grounds. Tomb of Dundee and Claverhouse's Stone. On to Dalnacardoch.

Oxford. Continuation of account of travels. From Carlisle to Penrith, and then on foot with a guide to Kendal and the Lakes. Ullswater and Patterdale - the king of Patterdale a great miser (who in fact died 5 days after the writing of this letter). The next to the top of Helvellyn, and on to Keswick. 2 days at Keswick, and 2 more at Windermere. Lovely country (as also in Scotland), but PE has realized that works of art give him more pleasure than those of nature. The docks of Liverpool delight him more than any landscape. 2 days in Liverpool with friends of Veysie (population of 70,000, doubled over last 30 years). Chester and on - but no need to describe this, since sister-in-law has seen it. A week in Worcester with Philpott (excursions to Hereford and Gloucester). Tewkesbury and Cheltenham (where a day with the Beverleys). Probably the best summer of his life - now for 10 months of noise, smoke, filth and confinement.

From John Vaughan, concerning the payment of some drafts from John (her late husband?) - he prefers that they not be paid at Ealing. A ship in dock has two pieces of canton crepe from a Mr Boylston, but they cannot be brought ashore except at the risk of the ship being seized - he will ask if it might be possible to pay duty and import them, and asks her to destroy this letter.

From Mr Phillips (?) in Montreal concerning the establishment of post offices in Kingston and York (now Toronto). Comments on affairs in Europe and Mauritius.

Paris. Apologises for delay in writing, but the journey was long. Slept at Blossom's Inn, Lawrence Lane, (and hopes never again), at Brighton, then at Dieppe - description of route to Paris and of scenery. (Le) Havre centre of French West India trade and full of bustle. Rouen ugly but prosperous - to theatre in evening (as large as Covent Garden before it was rebuilt, for a town of 80-90,000 inhabitants). Countryside from Rouen to Paris ugly and ill-cultivated. Paris better to live in but worse to visit than he expected. Apparently staying temporarily with Barrois (with whome he travelled as far as Rouen) - he has an excellent house and a well-educated wife, who speaks English and understands Latin. The French are a cleanly people, but there is a general air of shabbiness, perhaps caused by the circumstances of the times - few gentlemen, and it is hard to distinguish an officer from a common soldier. Every shoe black has a mild and polite demeanour - one of the most striking things. Many streets have two names - pre- and post-revolutionary (e.g. Quai Voltaire where Barrois lives is also Quai des Theatins).

Thanks PE for letter from Florence dated 10th June. . Expressions of tender feelings from all of them. Mary has had a return of her headaches - would be cured sooner if she were more sedate. Nancy (Ann) is in good health, but not happy at being urged to go into company - sister-in-law is rather happy that she is not charmed by the gaieties which delight other young people. She hears universally good reports of John. PE has talked of a visit to Paris the following year, and Mary is afraid that he might meet a French woman and marry her. Has temporarily started taking a daily paper, because of a scandal involving a lady bidding open defiance to all the accusations against her. News of various friends. Her nephew Ben Hallowell is to leave Charterhouse for Trinity College Cambridge. Her brother is rightly concerned - 7 children, and not one provided for. A friend (Mrs G) is facing two charges - her enemies are perjuring themselves. Has had an accident, and fears she will always have a limp.